* * * * * I pass over the first four days of the journey and stand in one of the great gorges of the Indus in dumb amaze at the glory of the hurrying water and with serious question of the chances of crossing the terrible rapids. I said as much to the guides in the sufficing colloquial I had picked up for daily use in the Lamasery of the Manis, and was reassured by their cheerful grins. “No difficulty, none. Here the river is so wide that there are shoals and sands. The ponies can do it …
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